Zippy gets a new exhaust system
- joepampel
- Jul 23
- 5 min read
Updated: Sep 8
Zippy's old muffler and heat exchangers had been in bad shape for years. But since we really only drive on sunny days with the top down it was never a priority to deal with. If we had to put the top up, we might have suffocated. The exhaust was leaking into the heat exchangers, and that was just one of the problems.
Once I got the 911's sunroof subdued (allowing me to park it out in the rain safely), Zippy got into the garage & up on the Quickjack for some serious TLC.
Hot take? There is nothing as rusty as an old Bug's exhaust system. It is truly amazing how bad they can get.
I will die on this hill.
I bought a muffler, a pair of new tail pipes, both heat exchangers and all of the clamps, gaskets and hardware I might need to survive this journey. Most of the parts are very inexpensive. The heat exchangers and muffler will run several hundred dollars though.
If you haven't had the pleasure, the heat exchangers are really the exhaust manifolds which then have a housing over them where air is blown over them to heat it up which provides heat/defrost to the passenger compartment1. The exhaust manifold has a pipe in the front of the engine and another in the rear. Then the muffler connects to the two heat exchangers, and finally you install the iconic chromed tailpipes into the muffler. Easey peasey? Not really.
Parts:
Muffler (year & market specific). The 1974 US market one I bought has a bung for an EGR valve (which this car never had) so I had to buy a special bolt to block that off. Luckily your corner auto parts store will probably have these in the right size. This one needed an M16-1.5 plug which is also a common oil drain plug size.
Tail pipes x 2
Muffler hardware (clamps, gaskets, nuts & bolts) - often sold as kits.
New exhaust stud kit (optional but a good idea to have on hand)
Heat Exchangers (L & R)
Opt - new cabin heater hoses, heater hose gaskets (rubber surrounds), heater cable pivots, various tin pieces, tin screws
Tools:
S-shaped wrench to get to remote nuts on heat exchanger
Open end & box wrenches for exhaust nuts
1/4 & 3/8 socket sets with wobble extentions, adjustable heads.
(basically pull out all your trick tools)
Torch or bolt blaster (or don't even try this)
Needle noise pliers, screw drivers, etc. for all the odd small parts & clips.
Basic order of operations
Remove the air hoses in the engine bay
Remove the engine tin (lots of little screws, and several different pieces large and small.)
Remove the clamps & bolts holding the muffler on to the heat exchangers, if you can.
If you can't, you may need to saw it off. You should be prepared to do exactly that.
My muffler clamps were broken or gone and the muffler had rusted to the heat exchangers.
With the muffler out of the way, try to remove the 4 nuts on each heat exchanger without breaking the studs.
There are 2 on the front side and 2 at the rear. They will be very rusty and you should use heat & penetrating oil (or wax) to gently work them loose so they don't just shear.
Remove the heat exchangers, disconnecting them from the heater cables and cabin air pipes
Installation is just the reverse, but may not be easier.
The trick with penetrating oil - or wax - is when you heat the fastener up, it will wick the fluid into the threads which will lubricate them. An old candle can work quite well if you don't have penetrating oil handy. The heating/cooling cycles also weaken the rusted fastener as it grows and shrinks.
If you are missing any of the engine tin, this is a good opportunity to replace it. The various pieces are available from several sources and mostly fit well. You may need to tweak them here or there, but it's 100% worth it to get this right. Aircooled engines depend heavily on proper airflow to stay at a safe operating temperature. The 1600cc Beetle engine carries only 2.5 quarts of motor oil which also has to both lubricate & cool the engine using a rather tiny oil cooler under the fan shroud. The tin at the rear is helping to protect the engine bay from the heat of the exhaust. The tin on the bottom of the engine is ensuring proper airflow over the cylinders and out the rear of the car.
Lets dig in:

I started out by removing the air hoses and then removing the tin:














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